Where espresso became a star in Basel 

Forty years ago, espresso and cappuccino were still something of a novelty in Basel. At Da Graziella, they are still served the traditional Italian way. What began as a bold new venture by a Sicilian family has since become part of Basel’s neighbourhood culture – attracting not only those with a longing for a taste of dolce far niente. 

Valérie Ziegler, nuage

This summer, with construction works taking place all over Basel, finding a cosy spot for a coffee was not always easy. Here, however, that was never a problem. International flair blends perfectly with this leafy corner, where Müllheimerstrasse meets Feldbergstrasse. Lively Da Graziella is a café with cult status for anyone who loves Italianità.

Da Graziella – Online Magazin Oktober

Co-owner Carmela Petitjean-Guglielmino at Da Graziella on Feldbergstrasse. © Basel Tourismus, Oz Jacob Tabib

Forty years ago, it was one of the first places in Basel where, alongside café crème, you could order cappuccino, latte macchiato and espresso. “My parents were certainly taking a risk when they opened a café in Basel”, says Carmela.

“My parents were certainly taking a risk when they opened a café in Basel.” Carmela Petitjean-Guglielmino, co-owner of Da Graziella

“At the time, they mainly wanted to cater to the Italian community.” But the espresso and velvety cappuccino soon won over the Bebbis too – the colloquial name for the people of Basel. And that hasn’t changed to this day. “For me, it’s quite simply the best coffee in the city”, says our photographer Oz, who has lived in Basel for five years.

Da Graziella – Online Magazin Oktober

Da Graziella is known for its Italian coffee. © Basel Tourismus, Oz Jacob Tabib

From Sicily to Basel

The story of Da Graziella, however, does not begin on Feldbergstrasse, but in Catania, Sicily. There, Carmela’s parents already ran a thriving pasticceria. But a successful business does not necessarily mean that a family is financially well off. In 1979, Carmela’s parents came to Switzerland to make a fresh start.

At the time, however, their children could not simply come with them. Carmela and her siblings therefore spent four years at a boarding school in northern Italy. “My two brothers were separated from us two sisters because our boarding school was too expensive for all of us”, recalls the now 54-year-old. Their parents visited whenever they could, but building a business in Switzerland took a great deal of time.

Da Graziella – Online Magazin Oktober

Today, the second generation runs the family business. © Basel Tourismus, Oz Jacob Tabib

For the four children, it was an at times painful period. Later, however, they came to understand why their parents had chosen this path. “They did it for our future. And as parents, they probably suffered even more than we did.” This was particularly true of their mother, who died ten years ago. “Graziella was, I think, the proudest mother there could ever be.”

Once the family arrived in Switzerland, they not only had to adjust to a new environment, but also learn a new language. “Nevertheless, I am incredibly grateful that I am able to live here. For me, there is no better country.”

Four siblings, one shared journey

The story of the parents eventually became the story of their four children. Carmela’s brother Martino followed a career in pastry. After completing his apprenticeship at Beschle, he gained experience in leading hotels and went on to head renowned pastry departments at prestigious establishments across Europe. Carmela chose an apprenticeship in banking. Francesco and Maria remained with the family business. At a certain point, it became clear that all four siblings would need to take on responsibility, carry the business forward and continue to develop it. “One day, Martino said to me: ‘If you join me too, and all four of us pull together, then I’ll come back to Basel.’”

And so, around 25 years ago, the story of Da Graziella as it exists today began. Four siblings, each bringing different experiences, but united by a shared decision: to continue the family business.

Italy in Basel

The original branch on Feldbergstrasse remains the heart of the Graziella family to this day. “Even though we now have three other, larger locations, this one will always be our baby.”

That has a lot to do with the customers, too. “There are people who have been coming in every day since day one”, says Carmela. They were children back then; today, they return with children of their own. Over the decades, the café has become an integral part of the neighbourhood.

“There are people who have been coming in every day since day one.” Carmela Petitjean-Guglielmino, co-owner of Da Graziella

The name and logo have remained unchanged since the beginning. The second, larger bakery on Dornacherstrasse was transformed into a second café in a rather spontaneous overnight operation. “Our customers were completely puzzled that our second location was simply a bakery, with nowhere to sit down and enjoy a coffee.”

With two further locations at Drachenzentrum and Joggeli, the bakery in Gundeli eventually became too small, too. Today, production takes place in Allschwil.

Cornetto, treccina and cubo al pistacchio

Visitors to Da Graziella don’t usually come just for the house coffee and relaxed atmosphere. As in Italy, payment is made “al banco” (at the counter), and your espresso can be accompanied by a tempting array of colazione pastries, their irresistible aromas filling the café. It’s worth arriving early. Despite the impressive selection, much of it may already have sold out by 11 am.

The menu also features Sicilian classics such as arancini, cannoli and amaretti. “We call them amaretti, but actually they’re biscotti di mandorla”, explains Carmela. “Pasta di mandorla – that’s Sicily!”

Carmela’s personal favourite is the raviola di ricotta – a triangular parcel of pastry filled with sheep’s-milk ricotta. And then there’s the treccina – a little braided pastry filled with vanilla cream and raisins, which has been part of the offering since the very beginning.

The treccina reminds Carmela every day of her mother, Graziella, who, despite not speaking German, was much loved by her customers. “I still remember a customer asking, ‘What is that?’ My mother replied, ‘A little plait.’ But the man wanted to know the Italian word. I can still hear my mother saying ‘treccina’, just as if she were saying it again today.”

Quality over Instagram

The meeting of Basel and Sicily extends to the ingredients, too. The amaretti are made with eggs from the Basel region, honey from the Bruderholz neighbourhood and almonds from Avola in Sicily. “That’s where you find the best almonds”, says Carmela.

When it comes to beer, Basel brewing tradition meets Italian flair: guests can enjoy Unser Bier alongside Nastro Azzurro. While the fresh meat is sourced locally, ingredients such as almonds and pistachios are brought in from Sicily.

And although the Italian café now also serves matcha latte, the family has no desire to chase every passing trend. “We thought long and hard about whether, as Italians, we really should jump on this trend. But I think that, nowadays, you can’t completely shut yourself off from certain things.”

The same applies to social media. Even though Carmela would happily switch most of it off, she doesn’t want to be too rigid. “But I’m longing for a counter-movement.”

“Sustainability and economics go hand in hand.” Carmela Petitjean-Guglielmino, co-owner of Da Graziella

Graziella is all about traditional craftsmanship, homemade delicacies and treating its own products with care. Food waste has barely been an issue here for years. Anything left over at the end of the day is collected by Äss-Bar and sold the following day. “Sustainability and economics go hand in hand”, says Carmela. If you work sustainably, you save money too.

There is really only one thing Carmela misses from Italy today: the sea.

And she doesn’t have any specific dreams for the future, either. “I’d be very happy if things could stay just as they are.” Although, she admits, having a café in the city centre would still be rather nice – as an addition to the existing business.

A dream that could well become reality. All that remains is to hope that the construction works will have been completed by then. Although, then again, the spirit of Graziella would probably outshine those too.

Da Graziella

Da Graziella is a pasticceria e caffetteria in Basel, founded in 1985 by Sebastiano and Graziella Guglielmino from Catania. Today, the second generation around Carmela Petitjean-Guglielmino (see photo) runs the family business with several cafés in Basel and its own bakery in Allschwil. Homemade sweet and savoury specialities, amaretti and coffee from Sicily bring Italian café culture to Basel’s neighbourhoods. 

dagraziella.com

Cooperation with Basel Happens

Would you like to meet more exciting personalities of Basel? On the Instagram channel “Basel Happens”, our journalist Valérie Ziegler has been showcasing her beloved city since 2017, together with the local photographer Oz J Tabib. Discover inspiring and unique places, people, and projects!