Kozak Buvette – “We want to create a place of peace”
Valérie Ziegler, nuage
Lyubov Syrotyukova serves her freshly cooked borscht with a warm smile. So you can’t possibly say no to it! The Ukrainian stew consists of lots of vegetables, rye bread and plenty of dill. However, the Kozak’s speciality is love – and you can taste it with every spoonful. Together with Larysa Vovchok and Tetjana Tkachenko, the Ukrainian chef runs the Kozak Buvette in the Markthalle. Grégoire Fabre brought this great project to life. Originally an architect, he and his wife had already opened a restaurant in Buenos Aires.
Five years ago, the architect couple moved to Basel with their children. Why? Talking to the native of southern France, it quickly becomes clear that he is not someone who pursues life plans. This also applies to the opening of Kozak – which he himself describes as an “experience”.
However, he realized relatively quickly that he really wanted to move into the world of gastronomy: “My main aim is to challenge clichés, because people are often very prejudiced when it comes to cuisine.”
«My main aim is to challenge clichés, because people are often very prejudiced when it comes to cuisine.» Grégoire Fabre
Exterior view of the Markthalle Basel at night © Markthalle Basel
The Saturday market in the Markthalle Basel © Martin Zeller & Nicolai Gysin
The energetic connoisseur is also fully committed to sustainability issues in the catering industry. Local, organic products are an absolute must for him. “Can you believe that there are only around 20 restaurants in Switzerland that are certified organic?”
Ukrainian cuisine fulfils the requirements for this perfectly. Contrary to many beliefs, it is not heavy and meat-laden, but instead features lots of vegetables.
From cargo ship to multicultural culinary harbour
After the outbreak of war in Ukraine in 2022, Grégoire and his family took in refugees. A short time later, an acquaintance introduced him to the Ukrainian chef Lyubov. So one thing led to another, or to put it in his own words: “A matter of course that fills us with joy!”
Having fled Mariupol – the so-called martyr city – together with her 20-year-old daughter, Lyubov now brings the Kozak Buvette to life with all her heart and soul. Her Ukrainian flat was completely destroyed and she had to leave her parents behind.
“I talk to them on the phone every day. Or at least try to; unfortunately the connection doesn’t always play along”, she says with tears in her eyes.
«The Swiss guests could be a little more open to trying new things.» Lyubov Syrotyukova
Her life was turned upside down from one day to the next. In her mid-fifties, she previously worked as a chef on a cargo ship. “I’ve seen the whole world!”
Today, she faces the (culinary) world every day in the market hall: “Of course I like it – it fills my heart with joy!” the refugee is clearly genuinely grateful.
She is happy when she cooks. She also particularly appreciates the variety of cuisines and people in the market hall. “However, the Swiss guests could be a little more open to trying new things”, she smiles.
Place of peace
At Kozak Buvette, the main ingredient is love. © Pati Grabowicz
High-quality organic food takes centre stage. © Pati Grabowicz
At Kozak, everything is prepared by hand. © Pati Grabowicz
It is love and passion that brings them together: At Kozak, everything is cooked by hand and in situ. At Kozak, all products come from Switzerland, 50 per cent from within a radius of less than 30 kilometres. Kozak has succeeded in becoming the first restaurant in Switzerland with Demeter Light certification.
Kozak fights against food waste and for integration. Kozak takes its CO₂ footprint seriously. Despite owning a restaurant in South America, Grégoire no longer flies.
Kozak serves traditional Eastern European dishes such as borscht, kholodynk, banosh, vareniki and many other delicacies. Veggie, vegan or lactose-free – it’s always organic!
“Our aim is to also integrate Russian refugees in the future”, says Grégoire, “and thus create a place of peace.” Because yes, at Kozak your dreams can grow. The Cossack way, no doubt – they’ve always done it!
Note: The text was published in 2024. Lyubov no longer works in the Kozak team, but Tetjana, Larysa, Svetlana and Lina do. The photos shown were taken without Lyubov.
“Kulinarischer Kosmos”
You can read more profiles and delicious recipes from the market hall in the recently published cookery book “Kulinarischer Kosmos” (only in German).
Find out moreCooperation with Basel Happens
Would you like to meet more exciting personalities of Basel? On the Instagram channel “Basel Happens”, our journalist Valérie Ziegler has been showcasing her beloved city since 2017, together with the local photographer Oz J Tabib. Discover inspiring and unique places, people, and projects!
